Ilkley Moor – the perfect place for getting away from it all; fresh air, wild heather, natural streams, grazing sheep.
Where do I sign up?
Well, I recently visited.
Having visited Ilkley with the intention to explore the moor twice within the last year but that not coming to fruition for reasons that only a pair of girly mates craving beer and chips in the sun might know, I had never actually managed to fully explore the moors. I was determined to put that right – and put it right I did. I ended up embarking on a meaty ten mile walk which, once home, felt akin to having been on a mini holiday – all in a day!
We achieved so much – a hike is always an achievement – and I love squeezing the most I can out of a single day because you can turn a potentially average day on the calendar into something memorable and that is what I love to do more than anything.
Up in the heights of the heather-carpeted moors, you feel almost frighteningly away from civilisation. There were times I felt a little unnerved up there, surrounded by nothing but bogs, heather, sheep and an ever-changing terrain. But in actuality you don’t ever go too long before seeing another person, even if it is only one jogger, cyclist or dog walker in half an hour, it is enough to feel safe.
So, when me and my travel partner ended up desperately clutching hands, squealing as we accidentally veered off the path and nervously squelching through a massive bog, it was a huge relief to see a jogger contentedly running on the designated path across the way from us – yes, the path that we had managed to lose track of. My wellington-clad foot dipped quite deep down into a bog at one point and thoughts of sinking into the sog crossed my fervent mind I will admit. Luckily it didn’t come to that and we got on our way with our own gusto and the help of a friendly local who ensured us that we were going the correct way towards The Twelve Apostles.
We began the day mask-clad on the half-hour train journey from Leeds. Ilkley is really convenient to get to from the city and the remote setting it provides is pretty epic considering all the hustle bustle is really not far away at all.
Ilkley is a gorgeous little town that gained a name for itself in the 17th and 18th centuries as a place to go for clean running water. During the 19th century, the Victorians revelled in this rather fashionable spa town and frequented it to relax and bathe in the cool waters.
The town displays great examples of this history, noteably on Wells Promenade which you arrive at a mere 2 minutes after walking from the train station. The distinctive white-washed buildings skirt alongside Wells Walk which makes for a pretty and scenic little walk up to the beginning of the moor. With the springs babbling and gushing tranquilly and the trees providing dappled shade in a mini nature hideaway, Ilkley is undoubtedly special. It is an upmarket town with plenty of independent, boutique shops. There is a Betty’s Tea Room (which usually denotes a higher ranking place) and a pretty park and town hall.
It is worth spending the day there without even heading up to the moors and you can explore and stroll at your leisure and get to know the small town well. But this time, I was intent on heading to the moor and the moor only.
It is fabulously easy to get up to the moor from Ilkley train station, this is presuming that your mobility is good of course. You can drive up and park at the lower and higher parts of the moor, making use of the car parks, which will definitely be a better option for some. If you are going on foot however, you simply come out of the station, walk up Wells Walk enjoying the soundtrack of babbling streams, before entering the base area through the cattle grid. Here, there is a picnic area and a little maze etched into the ground that is fun for children to complete but we, being the big kids that we are, embarked on it too and the challenge of a little puzzle in the sun was greatly enjoyed!
Walking further ahead from here takes you past Wells House and a duck pond that you can see if you peer through the trees, but this is private land and you can not get too close to the house.
Just opposite, across the tarmac road, a rugged uphill path provides the beginning of the moors walk. You are immediately treated to beautiful Yorkshire views which you marvel at the higher you ascend. Past the choppy grass, through the red berry trees and beyond blankets of green hills and a thrilling skyline, you can see the view of Ilkley from above; the train station, the rising church spire and the town hall can all be seen from bird’s eye view.
Ilkley Tarn, another Victorian hotspot, is to be found if you go in a certain direction, but we missed that due to walking straight up ahead towards the Bath House – do look up more thoroughly wihich turning you must take if you would like to see the Tarn – I intend to do this next time and it is supposed to be very beautiful, which I can fully believe.
The terrain changes throughout the duration of the walk up to the top of the moors so good shoes are essential. I wore wellington boots; I wear these often and I find that if you get some cute and fashionable ones they are so comfortable very durable and cheap enough to buy – I wear them on normal days just because they are so comfy! The ground changes from large embedded stones to areas overrun with lots of little stones, to more severely rocky areas that you have to clamber over, before coming to a gravel path.
I think Wellies are a good choice of footwear as then you have the option to splash through the little streams and if you become stuck in boggy wetland they are ideal. I have since learned to be a bit more careful not to lose track of the pathways for future walks as bogs are usually full of unseen creatures that would be quite under threat if every human came along and trampled all over them – I consider my wrist firmly slapped and intend to be much more careful in future – I do not like the thought of disturbing their peaceful homes.
As you ascend further up the moor, you come to a beautiful viewing point with a railing and a bench where you can stop and take in the views of Ilkley town and the surrounding hills. There is a little waterfall and a little rocky stream which is a welcomed resting point if you are feeling fatigued at this point – watch out though, you have much higher to go!
The Bath House is the next welcomed stopping point as, not only can you stop for refreshments if it is open (the flag flying signifies this) but there is a bench by the big tree on the hill to stop for a breather and take in the views. The Bath house is an old spa cottage that still has a plunge pool inside, once visited by Charles Darwin. White Wells Spa Cottage, being its full name, was closed for us but is worth knowing that it is free entry.
The hike started to get a lot more rocky as we went higher from this point. There were large boulders and rock clusters serving as fun obstacles and the carpets of wild heather look so beautiful when you are surrounded by that particular shade of purple. We found the rocks we had to clamber over safe and fun and only a little challenging and, after a bit more clambering and walking in the general direction of the only pub on the Ilkley Moors – The Cow and Calf, we came across a gorgeous little stream where lots of people had the same idea of taking a moment to rejuvinate by having a little splash in the cool water, stepping over the rocks and listening to the water.
We soon found the Cow and Calf Inn which is a gorgeous, unique little pub with astounding panoramic views of Yorkshire! If you find that you are lost or unsure of the direction you need to take on the moors, there are friendly people who will most likely be able to direct you. We asked two people for directions along the way and both of them knew exactly where we needed to go – you get the impression that many people are locals and know the area quite well, which makes you feel reassured.
With it being the only sunny day of a rainy and bleak week weather wise, the Cow and Calf was understandably busy and we had to wait for a table to be free outside before we could be served. It was worth the wait – and definitely needed – as we had already walked a fair few miles and had many more to go. The staff were rushed off their feet but accommodated us just fine as we ordered drinks and food. We had expected more choice of beers with it being a unique pub – there are often interesting craft beers but there seemed to mainly be the standard ones you can find in many other pubs such as Landlord, Wainwright and Leeds Pale Ale.
Our food was amazing though and my Beef Bourguignon was very rich, tender and flavourful. It kept me full for the rest of the day even though the portion doesn’t look very big, for a rich, balanced meal, it was just the right size and gave me the burst of energy I needed. We got £10 each off our final bill due to it being the Eat Out to Help Out scheme that the British government put into place for August to encourage the public to visit restaurants again to pick up the economy after lockdown.
As you sit outside at this Inn, you have the perfect opportunity to admire the surroundings and, if you are there at the right time, you can watch the sheep grazing just near by. There were some just a few feet away from where we were sat, although we started to feel quite tense when a dog from the beer garden barked, scaring the sheep and sending three of them running quite briskly across the – not particularly busy but frequented with traffic – road to the grass at the other side. Though I would like to think that most drivers in this neck of the woods will know to watch out for sheep, it was quite a tense moment imagining the worst. Luckily the drivers slowed down and the sheep saw it safely across to the other side.
After our lunch, we set out deeper on to the moors to find the Twelve Apostles; an ancient monument constructed during the Bronze age; these stones are the object of much speculation and have sadly been moved around many times due to falling down. They are worth a visit and this part of the moors is just so serene. To get to them from the Cow and Calf took us around three miles. A local woman (one of only two people we saw the whole time) advised us to follow the stream along and that eventually, if we followed the path around, we would arrive at the monument.
We had already walked about a mile and a half from the pub in that direction, stopping to notice another ancient site, Black Stone Circle from afar, all I could see in front of me was swathes of moorland that seemed to go on forever. I started to doubt that we would find the Twelve Apostles. But, after about three miles of heather, some very loud, clumsy pheasants and our boggy misdemeanour, we sighted the ancient structure we had been looking for.
Only the faint sound of a late summer breeze and a single lady sat on one of the stones greeted us when we arrived. It was so quiet and peaceful up there, like another planet. After taking a few photographs of the stones, we followed a gravel path long enough for Ilkely Moor to become Burley Moor. The views were just as stunning, but now dotted with a series of clear blue reservoirs in the low distance. The weather could not have been more perfect, it was sunny all day but with a slight breeze and not too humid,. We were comfortable and content, which you don’t always get on a hike!
We passed a row of about ten wells before soon coming upon a lonely looking building – the first one we had seen in miles in fact. I had initially no idea what this was, but after a bit of looking, I found a sign that told me it was a ‘Fire Station Meeting House.’ During the hot weather, the moorland becomes massively at risk of wildfire so this little house will be where the fire fighters congregate in the event of an emergency.
We passed some sheep whom were curious about us but rather kept to themselves, scarpering if we got too close. It was lovely to see them so close up as, unless you live in the countryside or on a farm, it isn’t every day you get to share your breathing space with sheep.
Suddenly, the pathway became charcoal-y which was a little surprising, though it was still comfortable to walk on, and we began to gradually descend Burley Moor. We stopped to admire the striking views of Menston and Leeds in the distance; we could make out the tallest building in Leeds from high up on the lonely moor which felt unusual.
With Leeds airport just over the horizon but hidden from view, we witnessed some planes setting off and peacefully gliding though the clear, blue sky.
There were also one or two helicopters above which temporarily broke the silence we were mainly shrouded in. We welcomed the slight drama but it never lasted for long before the strangely intrusive quiet ensued again.
Descending further down towards civilisation, we passed some beautiful Highland Cattle, unique for the long fur that partly covers their eyes, that were happily grazing. There was a bull among them so I felt a little nervous as I walked past. I was sure that as long as we didn’t get too close or aggravate it in any way we were most likely fine but, I guess it is not often I see bulls and I was a little unprepared!
A perfectly smooth and glassy mini reservoir soon caught my attention and I found it incredibly calming looking at the water, which was so reflectively smooth. The sun was just perfect at this point; at that stage on a warm, summer’s day where it is contemplating going to bed for the day but isn’t quite ready so it drenches you in a warm, evening glow. It can not fail to make you feel cherished and euphoric.
This was where we got a little bit lost in our walk; according to our online map, we were going to arrive near Shipley town centre where we could easily get a bus back home but, when we were leaving the countryside and coming towards the road, we discovered that we were actually 5 miles away from Shipley and any sort of bus that could get us home. After being so at peace, we were dismayed – we had already walked about 8 miles across quite challenging terrain with hardly any breaks, how could we manage another 5 miles we hadn’t even anticipated?!
The short answer? We couldn’t and we didn’t.
After a mile and a half walking along the edge of a busy narrow road, we came into Hawksworth where we found enlightenment in the form of a pub – I had literally never felt so happy! Now, I like a challenge, but I can unashamedly declare that I am NOT a fan of walking on the edge of busy roads for long periods of time, I just feel so nervous and don’t enjoy it at all. So this pub and the promise of Guinness were just what I needed.
Exhausted and a little sun-burnt, we settled down with our perfectly poured pints of well deserved Guinness and admired the area. We happened to be situated just opposite some holiday homes so it felt like we were on holiday ourselves as the evening sun beamed down and the Guinness glided down my throat like a swan might glide across that glass-like reservoir.
Still miles away from where we needed to be, we decided the only viable option was to get a taxi to Shipley because we were still 3 miles away. The taxi took us though Baildon, a little civil parish town, which – from the whir of the taxi windows – looked quite cute and interesting with a little sweet parlour and some nice pubs and houses. I am now planning a return visit soon enough – even if I only find sweets it will be worth it!
What a day! I thoroughly recommend a vist to Ilkley and Burley Moor if you are in that area of England, it is obviously great for socially distancing as, even on a hot day, it is still remote and not in the least crowded. It really is beautiful and brings so much satisfaction to overcome the challenges of the fickle terrain.
If you would like to read about another beautiful area of West Yorkshire, here is my post on the quaint village of Haworth.
