During my trip to Croatia, I stayed in a place generally lesser known by tourists; a little village called Kožino. I knew Croatia was going to be something special; I had heard very good things about an unspoiled and picturesque country with turquoise water and gorgeous Baroque style buildings, and my time in the country did not disappoint.
Fresh off the bus, I arrived at my guest house in darkness. My host was a very welcoming Croatian lady who registered my passport and assured me there was a mosquito net shielding my balcony door. This balcony overlooked a garden that I could just make out in the dark. I slept well, excited about what the next day would bring.
My first day in Kožino brought a view of my balcony garden in morning light. And it was beautiful. Lush green grass, palm trees standing tall, their chunky leaves swaying gently in the Spring breeze. Yellow, red and pink rose bushes and little potted plants, glistened in the morning sun.
And then there were poppies! A short walk from the house, a little roadside wild poppy garden came into view; tall wild grass speckled with red and black.
A few paces further brought me to a stone path at the edge of the Adriatic sea; boats patiently bobbing on the fresh blue water, trees partly browned by the strong Mediterranean sun, steps that could take you down closer to the blue and benches for you to sit and take in the view.
It was a cloudy day, but warm and with a spittle of rain. I walked further, past more pretty gardens and saw cacti, pine trees and the impressive Bird of Paradise perennial, all refreshed from the drizzle.
More lonely boats bobbing on the water, all the way along. Browning palm trees exaggerated the vibrant speckles of yellow and pink and a friendly grey dog peered out at me from the fence of a garden, as if waiting to be patted by passers by. I did not disappoint him.
Walking onwards past more foliage and ledges – there to sit on and inhale the sea air – I came upon a little cafe where a friendly waiter served me herbal tea and I sat and watched the ocean.
After the refreshment, I walked further into the village coming upon a mint green house that matched my top so I stopped to take a photograph. By then, the sun was intensifying so I decided to stop for lunch.
My Supermarket bought lunch was full of Mediterranean joy and preparing and laying the fresh produce out on little plates on my balcony table seemed to only enhance the experience. I sat and marvelled at the mini feast; fresh crusty bread, beautifully bitter olives, juicy tomatoes, sweet fiery onion, fresh creamy cottage cheese and delectably chewy cured meat.
Some of my very favourite moments in life have come from snaffling a Mediterranean feast. The tomatoes and onions are second to none, so sweet and juicy and bursting with vitamins and flavour.
What to do after a large, satisfying Mediterranean lunch? More sitting on the peaceful, sun-drenched balcony while it settles.
And then? More exploring!
I took a walk, taking in the sights of the Kožino quirks and unexpected offerings such as graffitied buildings (which always make for interesting photographs) and formulaic red brick buildings against perfectly cloudless and vibrant blue skies.
Further along, there was an adventure playground as signalled by a rather informal but endearing sign. The park was abandoned for the season and I couldn’t resist a little explore. I took a few eerie shots – there is little more atmospheric than an abandoned site intended for but lacking the happy clamour and rambunctious laughter of children, even if it is just temporarily.
I walked along the hot, dusty paths, noticing a snake as I passed which is something I don’t see every day, along with lizards – I love seeing these when I visit a hot country!
I was soon ready for a paddle to soothe my tiring feet.
Upon finding a little jetty along which you could walk and be closer to the sea, I did just that – pausing to observe the bobbing of the boats, the swaying of the trees and the lapping of the crystal water.
I made use of the bench under the tree to enjoy the warm shade, eat a white-chocolate coated coconut wafer bar from the local supermarket and to just be present and appreciate the candour of my surroundings.
As the curtains close on a beautiful day in Kožino, a great way to end it once it is dark and a little cooler is to appreciate the calming sight of the village church, illuminated by the night time glow. The steeple lit up against the shadows of the inky sky reflects the dominance of the bell, as it patiently waits for morning when it can chime to the village.
And chime it did, on my final morning in Kožino.
I highly recommend choosing this delightful village to stay in should you travel to Croatia; it is calming, laid-back and offers you that aquatic tranquility you are probably desiring given your choice to visit the Mediterranean, whether that is to be in the sea or just beside it.
I prefer the latter, but this is your trip.
Being so near to the city of Zadar is ideal also as you can combine your trip with the laid-back village vibe/safe haven of your apartment with the vibrancy and bustle of city life; get your shopping done and explore the vivacity of the bars and restaurants offering the top quality refreshments that the Mediterranean will always offer.
Fresh seafood, crisp wines, crunchy salad and a plethora of cocktails. YES.
So, nothing more to say other than, Goodnight Kožino , you were beautiful xx
