Haworth, commonly referred to as the ‘Brontë Country’ is a little Parish village in West Yorkshire. It is small but more than makes up for it in history and personality and makes for a fantastic day out or weekend away. It is a very special place to me as I went there as a child and my Mum, being a lover of all things literary, encouraged me to learn about the Brontë family and their writing – she even put a poster of Charlotte Brontë up on my bedroom door that was there for years – I can’t deny it did look a little odd next to walls covered in posters of Michael Jackson and The Spice Girls but that’s by the by.
As a result of her enthusiasm, I was taken to the Brontë Parsonage museum – formerly the house in which the family lived during the 1800’s – and I have fond memories. I have since revisited Haworth several times and am never any the less enthused.
So, soak up all the history and explore to your heart’s content. Here are some of the very best ways to enjoy the village of Haworth.
Take the steam train from Keighley
Haworth’s small train station is only in use during the summer months, so if you visit during this time, it is a nice option to travel there by steam train which is a highly esteemed activity in the community of West Yorkshire. The train travels from the Worth Valley platform museum at Keighley notably where The Railway Children was filmed. It takes you 6 stops and boasts some idyllic Yorkshire views.
It is great for children and adults alike and is a must for train enthusiasts. The chugging and whistling of the steam train is thrilling and transports you to the bygone era of train travel and how things would have been daily in the 19th to 20th centuries, this is something quite unique to experience.
Before you board the train, take some time to explore the Worth Valley museum platform at Keighley which details a little bit about the history of the station and train travel throughout the years. Then, once on the train, there is nothing to do but sit back and enjoy the experience. In around half an hour, you will arrive in Haworth.
Note: it is more common to get the bus from Keighley which is also a lovely journey with some nice views, it takes a bit longer but there are regular buses throughout the day – it is not quite comparable to the steam train experience but it is just as exciting knowing you will be arriving in Haworth.
Take in the history of the main street
Once in Haworth, the best thing to do first is to tread in the footsteps of the Brontë family and wander the cobbles of the main village street. This is very picturesque and perfect for photo taking. Gradually ascend the cobbled slope, admiring the cottages and people going about their business at the bottom. Browse the gift shops which are full of locally made art and make a mental note of what cafés and pubs you want to visit later.
Usually around Christmas time, there are market stalls back down at the bottom selling local produce such as cheeses, liquors, cured meats and more and there are usually little samples to try with very friendly market tenders! Once at the top of the slope though, stop there for a moment and take in your first viewing of the delightful, sweeping Yorkshire countrside where the Brontë sisters rambled often and Emily was inspired to write Wuthering Heights and her wonderful poetry.
The village often put on events throughout the year such as an annual 1940’s weekend, a Victorian weekend and a ghostly Halloween event. People come from around the country to get dressed up and enjoy Haworth in a unique and creative way, reminiscing about eras gone by. Haworth seems to spark a real nostalgia in people.
Have refreshments in a pub or café
Continue browsing the boutique shops at the top of the hill, noticing the view of the St Michael’s and All Angels’ Church at the very back behind you. Then, choose a pub or café for drinks and/or lunch. The obvious choice would be the The Black Bull Inn at the top of the street. It is quite famous, being the pub often frequented by the only brother of the Brontë family, Branwell would sit and drink himself into a stupour as he veered further off track.
He is rumoured to still haunt the pub prompting the Most Haunted production team to visit and perform a séance here back in 2005. This pub, unsurprisingly, does get a lot of visitors due to this but there are other fabulous pubs to try such as The Fleece Inn or The Hawthorn for traditional pub lunches and good ale if you would prefer somewhere that hasn’t been on TV! Try The Cookhouse café for lovely tea, cakes, soups and sandwiches or Cobbles & Clay for great food in a creative environment.
Visit the Brontë Parsonage
This is a must for any museum and/or Brontë, literary or history enthusiast. I absolutely love the Parsonage, it is a fantastic museum to find out more about a fascinating and talented family that went against the grain during a time of female oppression. Women weren’t supposed to be famous writers – or even writers at all – but these three sisters ignored what was expected of them, sought inspiration from their beautiful Haworth and just wrote. It is just a massive shame that, in many ways, this turned out to be at the expense of their brother Branwell who, suffocated by the success of his sisters and fragile mental health, unfortunately never became successful in his creative endeavours.
Their father, Patrick, the Parish vicar and a figurehead of the community was a tower of strength for the family and supported everything his children chose to do, however controversial. He lived a long life and survived all of his children. You can find out more about their lives and get a feel for Victorian Haworth in this unique museum. You can see their house and the rooms as they were and also some of their personal possessions. The tickets are priced at £9.50 for adults, £4.00 for children and it is worth every penny.
Explore the graveyard
This may not be everyone’s cup of tea but Haworth Cemetery is one of the most atmospheric in England. The overcrowded headstones meant that it was very disruptive for the residents during the 19th Century due to sanitation issues and an unpleasant stench. But in the present day, the varying levels, twists and turns, little passageways, overgrown ivy and beady-eyed crows offers a gothic feel that is extremely photogenic, whatever the weather or season, but very striking in Autumn and early Spring.
I have visited in heavy fog before and that was incredibly eerie – the tops of the decaying headstones playing hide and seek, the lonely flutters of unseen birds. It may be worth noting that the Brontë graves are not here above ground, contrary to popular belief, they lie in a crypt beneath the church. Anne’s resting place is in Scarborough by the sea that she so loved and her grave can be found there in St Mary’s Church. Anne died whilst taking a trip there in 1849 with Emily.
Walk over the Moors
It is probably best to take a full day for this with a little explore around the village rather than trying to squeeze everything into one day; perhaps if you go for two nights you could allocate one day for the village and the next for the moors walk or vice versa. The village is definitely deserving of a full, relaxing day worth of exploring.
If their writing is anything to go by, the Brontë sisters would take great joy in knowing that many visitors come to enjoy their treasured Moors in memory of them so it really is a wonderful place to go, take in the impressive scenery, reflect on the lives of the family and take note of the area that heavily inspired their writing. It is a beautiful walk where you meet sheep, see wild Heather and can see the Brontë bridge and waterfalls which were common walking routes for the Brontës.
You can get some fantastic photographs of the breathtaking Yorkshire countryside on this walk and it is perfect for enjoying some fresh air and getting away from the bustle of the village – this was the thinking of the sisters, especially as the small village will have been quite unsanitary at the time.
Visit nearby Stanbury
Another little village just 3 miles from Haworth and a gorgeous area with some stunning views and quaint cottages – Stanbury. If you go in the winter and get all wrapped up, you might find yourself in one of the cosy inns. There is sometimes a log fire burning which you can rest near whilst you savour a pint of dark local ale (I enjoyed the Heathcliffe ale) or a hot steaming chocolate and wish that you never had to leave.
I first discovered Stanbury when I went with my partner for our first ever weekend away together. Our B&B, Ponden House, was located very close to the reservoir and it was fantastic – ideal for us as keen and energetic walkers to walk to Haworth from. You pass the cows in the fields along the way and some really pretty scenery. It was a November weekend that we chose and it was very crisp and extremely misty which made everything feel very enchanting and mysterious but I’m sure whatever weather you ended up with would be just as lovely. I highly recommend visiting the Old Silent Inn pub, a very traditional inn with a lovely menu, welcoming staff and a real cosy feel.
So, there you have it. That would be a perfect itinerary for Haworth and never fails to be just that for me.
Extra things that you could do if you have time are to take a walk around the Central Park close to Main Street, go inside the St Michael’s and All Angels’ Church or walk around the residential outskirts of the village to admire the attractive houses and gardens in an effort to go ‘off the beaten path.’
