When the mysterious figure of Ethel Preston comes into view at Lawnswood Cemetery, it is extremely moving. Life-size and made of white Italian marble no less, the statue encapsulates just how Ethel would have looked; her height, the type of clothes she would have worn and the pensive expression on her face as she waits by the door, some say for her husband to return home. The story of Ethel at the Gate is conflicting in the sense that it is quite romantic, yet tinged with sadness. Her husband wanted the very best for her in death, who else in Leeds – or anywhere else in Yorkshire for that matter – has ended up being the figurehead of a famous grave?
Walter Preston paid a lot of money for his wife’s statue to be made, along with an exact replica of their front door. Ethel was only 50 years old when she died in 1911 and within a year, her husband had married their, much younger, house-keeper. For many, the charm in this tale is lost when that becomes known as it is widely believed that Ethel’s expression signifies that of a lonely wife waiting for the return of her unfaithful husband.
Nobody quite knows the truth of course; perhaps the husband was quite faithful but marrying the housekeeper made a sort of sense nobody else could ever understand. Or perhaps Ethel was miserable in her marriage and did spend much of her time just, waiting and feeling alone. The great gesture of the replica of Ethel and the front door merely guilt.
I found pondering these possiblities all encompassing as I stood admiring the Grade II listed monument, Ethel at the Gate. There are so many questions you would be keen to ask both Ethel and her husband but obviously that is an impossible feat. I think it is enchanting that Ethel is forever immortalised in this way, but who knows, maybe she wasn’t the type of person that woud have wanted this for herself and her husband had gotten her character all wrong. We can only speculate, but as you stand with her and read the plaque that stands in front of the grave, there is so much to think about, and plenty of time to do it, stood there in the quiet, reflective graveyard.
This graveyard wasn’t always as quiet as it was that July day in 2020. Back in 1913, hundreds of people flocked to see Ethel at the Gate when it was erected because it was such a rare occurence for this kind of memorial to happen in Yorkshire. The arrival of these people had to be regulated with the addition of special trams and refreshments, back when there were tram services in Leeds. People were clearly captivated and even though Ethel at the Gate is not as much of a novelty today – she has been there a long time and the spectacle of it all has somewhat died down – she remains one of the most cherished and pondered over memorials in England, with visitors still coming to visit and photograph her.
Depending on your interests, I would say that this is well worth paying a visit to, also considering that if you like exploring graveyards, this is an interesting one with long walls made up of memorial stones, pretty modern areas and then the more Victorian area which is in places quite dishevelled and damaged – this is a real shame but does naturally add to the character.
There isn’t much to do in the immediate area of Lawnswood. Being a small suburb in Leeds, it is mainly residential. Though unsurprisingly, it is home to a pub The Lawnswood Arms, a school, a post office and of course, the cemetery. It is located 4 miles away from Leeds city centre and you can get bus number 1 straight to it if you use google maps or ask the driver for the correct stop. You pass through Headingley on the way there, which has some nice bars, street food cafés, restaurants to be found and even an original Picture House cinema dating back to 1905. Headingley also has an interesting history – the image below is a structure named The Bear Pit which is one of the only remaining features of the Zoo and Botanical Gardens that were a short-lived attraction in the mid-1800’s, this structure housed a brown bear and is now Grade II listed. Headingley clearly has more than meets the eye but is one of the main areas to house students in Leeds so just be aware of that if you visit.
North of Lawnswood you will find Golden Acre Park; a scenic park with a lake and a little café which is lovely for a wander. The nearby village of Adel has some little areas worth exploring including the York Gate Garden which is situated near to Adel church where the paternal Grandparents of The Duchess of Cambridge were married. Only open during Spring and Summer, do check opening times first so you are not disappointed. Adel is located near to the site of a Roman fort and inscribed stones have been found along with some Anglo-saxon stones in the church foundations. Two crags named ‘Adel crags’ can also be found near to the Adel Woods car park which, though small, are attractive and a few people have been known to visit for climbing.
Though not perhaps your usual idea of where you might travel to or explore, these are certainly some off the beaten track areas of Leeds, England with some curiosities to be found. Find a nearby guest house or Airbnb and visit Lawnswood, Adel, Headingley and Golden Acre Park and you will be sure to find some gems that not many people know about.
