Malta in January is a breath of fresh air. You travel in from the UK armed with your sunglasses, sun-cream and cardigan in case it is ‘a bit cooler’ and then try not to self-piteously laugh as you sit there naively applying your cream whilst marvelling at the local you just noticed, casually strolling by all wrapped up in a coat, scarf and hat.
It is cool weather for them.
But to us poor Englanders, we are just grateful for even a fingers width of sun. Just one ray will do. After months of hibernating during a long winter of often sub-zero temperatures. Christmas is done and January may present a great opportunity for a bit of frolicking in the Mediterranean.
So, what is it like holidaying in the late Mediterranean winter?
We are all different of course but I think it is a fantastic time for a trip to the Mediterranean coast! Things are peaceful; less bustling, and you are able to mingle with the locals much more without bumping into as many holiday-makers. Don’t get me wrong – I love a good holiday alongside the happy families busily enjoying their well earned holiday – I went to Portugal in the height of summer 3 years ago and was not put out by the hullabaloo of happy tourists by any means, after all – I was one of them!
But, it is also nice to experience a calmer trip, that is absent of the trivial ‘stresses’ such as being stopped regularly by holiday reps or having to tactfully sidestep a child’s fallen ice cream. *shudder* – I’m not annoyed at the child with that shudder, just devastated for that ice cream. That they melt away unenjoyed doesn’t bear thinking about. I digress.
We stayed in the little coastal town of Sliema. I had booked the trip on a whim on Boxing Day using Skyscanner as I always do. Flights and hotel pairings are so cheap on there so I didn’t feel too sassy when I upgraded our room to include a sea view for just a few euros extra. I had never had a room with a sea view before and it just felt like the right time. I had no idea what that view would look like as there are of course different types with some being very generous and some with only a tiny teaser of blue that mean you have to be at a certain angle to see it from your window.
I normally take a risk with my hotels and go for as cheap as possible with the outlook that, as long as there is a bed to sleep in – and no cockroaches as standard – then luxuries are not required. I don’t usually even bother including breakfast; most resorts and cities have multiple bakeries where you can buy a croissant and fresh orange juice for a few cents to help set you up for the day.
We were not disappointed. It was exhilirating having a sea view, and on my more challenging days during this lockdown that we are in during the time of writing this article; whilst remaining grounded and aware of all the pressing issues in the world, I dream of it with gratitude and the hope that one day I will see it again.
Opening the curtains each morning in that little room presented me with a long stretch of blue graced with the serene presence of a single sailing boat and perhaps a ferry in the distance. I could see nothing but blue until I padded forward a few steps closer to the balcony doors, allowing the pavement to come into view. It was lined with benches, street lamps and trees; locals strolling along in their hats and scarves, cyclists gliding by – a new morning in Sliema…
We arrived in Malta about 1pm and, after checking in to our hotel, explored the immediate area a little. I realised that I had forgotten to pack sunglasses yet couldn’t get far without them due to the sun’s powerful afternoon rays, so I bought some from a lovely man at a little souvenir shop. He was very friendly and laughed along with me as I noticed the worryingly large pen-knife in full view on the counter and put my hands up in a defence positon as if to say ‘you got me.’
All the locals we encountered in Malta were extremely friendly and welcoming and I must admit it was nice to not have a language barrier this time as everyone automatically spoke in English to us. I hope that doesn’t make me sound like a typically privileged British traveller – some trips are excellent for challenges such as trying to master the language of the country you are visiting.
Other trips, however, are wonderful when you can immerse yourself in another culture but communicate in a very casual and relaxed way. It just depends on the trip and what you are looking for that particular time. This time I think we wanted to do more relaxing so this worked well. English and Italian are commonly spoken in Malta and there is the official Maltese language which is used less often – we did not hear it once whilst we were there. Had we stayed longer, I would have been interested to hear some and try to speak the basics.
It was unusual visiting a popular holiday destination and not seeing any refreshment vans set up and vying for your business. It was even quite difficult to get something that is usually so ubiquitous at a coastal resort, such as ice cream or a can of pop, as you wander by the sea.
There were a few ice cream/food/coffee vans to be found at various points along the sea walk from Sliema to Valletta but all were closed to business. I relished at the image of them all opening up, eager and ready for the busy summer ahead. What you can get ice cream wise in Malta (I’m presuming all year round) are lovely little gelato-style ice cream parlours sandwiched between various other establishments.
These are not teeming with customers in January as they would be in the height of summer but they certainly did not fail to deliver! I had Pistachio and my travel partner had Mango; very delicious and so refreshing in the warm winter sun.
Similarly, it was strange to see lots of promotional stands all closed up, with a shortage of reps who are usually merrily handing out leaflets trying to encourage you to join an excursion with them. There were a few to be found still and on our second day, we got talking in a very natural manner to a lovely lady from Southern England. She was working on a stand and gave us some very useful information about taking a trip to Gozo Island. It was a friendly exchange and didn’t feel as pressured as it sometimes does during the peak seasons when the competition between the reps is higher.
So, that first afternoon, we walked along, by the salty-blue sea as the sun was beginning to set. We met some cats that were well fed but quite adverse to human company – apart from a little one that seemed to revel in the attention I was only too happy to give. The cats were all gathered in a quiet roadside area that led up to the Fort Manoel.
This fort looked really interesting and we thought we may have chance for a quick look round but when we got up there, it was closed to visitors and actually wrapping up from some filming for a TV/film production. We saw the production van and the team congregated in the car park area. I wonder what they were filming. Malta is a very sought after destination for productions as it is so striking in it’s appearance and layout. When you visit the Island you learn a bit about the various shows and films it has provided the setting for.
The walk from Sliema to Valletta – the Capital of the Island – is highly recommended if you are fit and able. It takes about an hour and along the way you pass absolutely stunning views of the twinkling sea and the distinctive Baroque buildings that theatrically grace the skyline. It is like a teaser trailer for what is to come.
Although I facetiously mentioned sun-cream at the start of this post, in reality I barely used any during this trip. It is not really necessary to dress like you would in July for example, in vests and shorts. (Obviously do that if you wish if you don’t mind standing out from the crowd!) I found it ideal to wear loose floaty clothes and layers that keep you cool but cover you up when the sun is more intense at peak times.
Layers will come in handy to keep you a bit warmer once evening descends because it does get really cold in the evenings this time of year! Wearing more material also replaces the need to apply lots of sun-cream so you don’t feel all sticky. I did wear a low cut top though so applied some to my chest, neck and face as I have a complexion that can catch the sun. But it certainly made a nice change to be able to enjoy some Mediterranean sunshine without all the cream!
Some of the features you pass along the way to Valletta include my favourite… a Duck Village! This is a sanctuary for ducks and other animals – which is very quirky and something I will be writing more about in a future post!
You pass a row of pretty pastel benches where you can sit and take in the sea and watch birds swooping and gliding. And it isn’t long before you come across a beautiful church which, from the little park nearby, you can take a moment to marvel at and and also see some fountains and poignant memorials and statues. There were fairy lights hung on it that traced the entire outline of the church and it’s windows and I imagined that it would look very magical all lit up at night. We didn’t go in to the church as we had quite recently explored lots of churches in Vilnius where there are hundreds in close proximity to eachother. We love doing this but felt keen to soak up more of the sun during this particular trip.
We found that there were some roads to cross to get closer to Valletta, alongside which was some of the classic sandstone architecture, now shabby from the years gone by. I personally quite like seeing and photographing these rundown buildings as they serve as a humble reminder that buildings don’t last forever. The recording of them helps to dissolve the notion of perfection. This is important I think to maintain a more realistic and grounded perspective of a place – for there is not a place on this earth that can boast perfection.
Sometimes, these kinds of photos look the most unique and striking. A dishevelled building is surely an art form in itself…particularly when heavily grafitied with the words ‘KEEP OUT’ – it was all I could do to just walk past and not break down the barricades to have a peek inside! Most probably that would be very unsafe though, so I would always obey the warning sign!
This staircase and little shrine in the wall reminded me very much of Naples and, for a moment, I felt I could have been there.
I loved these weathered sandstone buildings with the quite ostentatious green shutters. They have so much character.
It was satisfying and picturesque looking over to Sliema from the Valletta side, the views are just delightful of the harbour and the vibrant blue sea. And after a bit more walking, an unprecedented but pretty detour, a bit of company from a maltese dog and plenty of anticipation – we found ourselves in the little capital, Valletta.
I will be writing more about Valletta in a future post so will not go into detail here but I will say that I was struck by my first entrance into the city via the city square. The large fountain was quite menacing with creepy-faced statues and I loved the layers of the city; how you ascended and could then look down on other parts of the Island, it was like no other city I had been to before in that sense.
In keeping with sentiments I have relayed a lot in this post, there are some fantastic viewpoint areas where you will see some of the most magnificent views you could ever want to see. Photographs don’t do them justice really.
We enjoyed some delicious stout and the best food platter we had ever seen and tasted at a bar in Valletta and visited as many of the landmarks of the city as we could in the few hours we had there but more about that coming soon!
Our final day saw us spend a day at Gozo Island which was lush and quaint. Weather wise – beware of the open top Sightseeing buses in the winter – we traversed the whole Island on one of these and loved it but it is not for wind haters and was extremely rapid. It is a great way to get around the Island in a day but just be prepared to be cold and consider wearing a hooded jumper for shelter if you choose to sit on the top deck!
Maltese winter nights, I found, are well spent enjoying a drink of your choosing either outdoors in a bar by the firey outdoor heaters or on your very own balcony! We wrapped up our day one with a night time cocktail in one of the many bars that offer what seems to be a constantly great atmosphere, where the staff love the vibe as much as the customers. It is table service even for just one quick drink which is something you rarely find in the UK and a nice little cultural nuance where you are made to feel a little special but I guess, also in danger of starting a tab!
We couldn’t see the sea through the inky-black sky when we looked out that night, all we could see was a vast, dark void. But, we knew it was there and you could hear it a little, swooshing and lapping. I think of Malta now and I cant believe how different the world is from when I was there, only three months ago.
Shortly after, travel was almost completely suspended and trips away are now something you can hardly envisage ever doing again. But when it is safe to travel again, do consider visiting Malta just as January is ending; the sun during the day time is gently hot and the mornings and nights are cool enough to enjoy more snuggly moments where you can just enjoy the more laid back side of a Mediterranean country.
I have enjoyed writing this aticle as it has taken me back to one of my favourite trips and I do hope you have enjoyed reading this and are all safe and well, wherever in the world you are.
xx
